Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these stories and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
